Tag Archives: vintage

Chardonnays and pinot noirs reflect Patz & Hall’s vintage year

Even the most liberal wine drinkers, when pressed, will admit to having their favorite varietals.

Many white wines fans still lean heavily toward chardonnay, with its bright flavors and vanilla notes from its full, oaky backbone. Red drinkers split evenly among several varietals, but more of them seem to be turning to pinot noir, which manages to be both subtle and delicate while retaining a robust palate of dark fruit and full mouthfeel.

Some of the best of both come from Patz & Hall. The Sonoma winery produces nothing but chards and pinots, which founders Donald Patz and James Hall admit are their personal favorites. Their affinity for the two varietals has served the winery and its customers well since 1988, when the two combined forces to produce their own wines.

As in all good partnerships, each winemaker has his own duties: Patz is the businessman, Hall is the winemaker. Together, they produce some exceptional vintages that have attracted a large crowd of loyal followers. They recently shared their thoughts with the Wisconsin Gazette, as well as giving some insights on their most recent wines and personal favorites.

Patz & Hall only produces chardonnays and pinot noirs. Why?

Donald Patz: It’s important, I think, not trying to be all things to all people. There’s a discipline to focusing on just one white and one red wine variety. We love drinking California chardonnay and pinot noir and, by focusing on just these two varietals, we better understand the needs in both the vineyard and in the winery for each. It makes our wines better.

I know that the two-varietal concentration has changed the nature of the winery itself. How does your winery differ from others?

James Hall: It was only logical to focus our design around optimizing the facility to produce these two varieties at the highest quality level possible. That meant installing small open-top pinot noir fermenters, large cooled barrel rooms for chardonnay fermentation, blending and racking tanks sized to hold our single-vineyard wines and all of the appropriate winemaking equipment scaled and geared toward pinot and chardonnay, including a large sorting table, large chardonnay presses for whole cluster pressing and small-scale de-stemmers for careful de-stemming.

By not having to accommodate other grape varieties, we didn’t have to compromise any tank configurations or equipment styles. This specialization has led to higher wine quality by having just the right equipment to meet our stringent standards of excellence.

Can you compare several of your chardonnays, specifically the 2013 Hyde Vineyard Carneros ($60) and the 2014 Sonoma Coast ($40)?

DP: It’s an interesting contrast. Hyde Vineyard wine always has great acidity and a purity tension on the palate. It has great concentration but also a delicacy. It would certainly be a “grand cru” if we had them in California. The aromas swing more toward exotic citrus fruits and minerality. It’s a very serious chardonnay that benefits from additional aging to show the complete set of flavors buried within.

The Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, on the other hand, is focused on floral and pretty perfume aromas. Whereas the Hyde is serious, the Sonoma Coast is playful and delicious. It is the most “California” of the chardonnays we make.

Can you do the same comparison for the pinot noirs, specifically the 2013 Chenoweth Ranch ($60), the 2013 Hyde Vineyard Carneros ($70), and the 2013 Sonoma Coast ($46)?

JH: 2013 was an excellent vintage year. The long, moderately warm growing season produced profound wines of great depth, intensity and character. The wines tend to show excellent balance and structure, with juicy ripe flavors moderated with smooth tannins and higher-than-typical acidity.

Our Chenoweth Ranch Russian River Valley Pinot Noir shows wonderful cherry, boysenberry, clove spice and dark chocolate aromas coupled with an exceptionally smooth, rich and flavorful mouthfeel. The Chenoweth Ranch consistently produces one of our finest single-vineyard wines and 2013 is proving to be one of the best years ever.

The 2013 Hyde Vineyard Carneros Pinot Noir had an equally fine year. The wine shows wonderful aromas of dried roses, cinnamon spice, dried cherry and delicate layers of moist fresh soil and black tea. This was a great year for Hyde Vineyard, which tends to produce wines that are lighter and more elegant, with higher acidity and leaner, more focused textures than Chenoweth Ranch’s broad more powerful structure.

Overall, the success of the 2013 vintage shows most clearly in the 2013 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. The wine is a blend of 18 vineyard sites stretching from Sonoma Valley through Russian River Valley to the far Sonoma Coast. Having such a broad collection of vineyards, and having them all succeed at startling levels of quality, is proof of how special the 2013 vintage is.

Of all your wines, which is your personal favorite?

DP: I don’t really have a favorite among any of the wines we make. I do drink a lot of the Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($44). It seems to marry well with everything I eat at home.

JH: I like all of our wines and believe they each have a distinct reason to be bottled. Just like music, there are many different styles and modes, with no single type being the best for every mood or situation.

That said, if I were forced to choose one wine and drink that alone for the rest of my life, it would have to be our Hyde Vineyard Carneros Pinot Noir. To me, the complexity, subtlety and flexibility match with many different foods, and the overall grace and style of the Hyde Vineyard, makes it my favorite … at least until I’m in the mood for something different.

Touring the old times at the Chudnow Museum of Yesteryear

What is a man with 1,000 bars of vintage antique soap to do with it all?

For Avrum “Abe” Chudnow (1913–2005), 1,000 bars of soap was just the tip of the iceberg. The voracious collector had thousands of everyday items from the 1920s, ’30s and ’40s — enough to fill a museum 20 times over. Today, that’s exactly where many of them are displayed: Milwaukee’s Chudnow Museum of Yesteryear.

The museum is located on 11th Street, just south of Kilbourn Avenue — due west from the Courthouse but across the freeway. There, says executive director Steve Daily, the Chudnow Museum becomes a vast representation of “American material culture.”

Even more than that, it is a walk-through record of Milwaukee in the early 20th century, with rooms designed to evoke experiences like visiting a soda shop, hardware store, and even a speakeasy. Fourteen rooms in this expansive house, built in 1869, are designed as settings that revive the past.

Chudnow never lived here, but purchased it in 1966 for his law practice, real estate business, and as a home for his ever-expanding collection. Daily recounts that Chudnow’s wife was delighted because his treasures had been taking over their own domicile. As the son of a peddler, Chudnow was fascinated from an early age in the stuff of everyday life, from machines and toys to packaging and signs. Each room is densely outfitted with pieces that tell the story of life in these decades.

The recreation of a hardware store features gas stoves and innovative electric appliances. During the nascent years of the 20th century, such stores offered an array of items that testified to the changes brought on by electricity in private residences. By the 1920s, 60 percent of households enjoyed this new convenience, and it spurred desire for gadgets that made domestic chores a bit easier. After all, just working in the kitchen was the equivalent of a full-time job for many a housewife.

The former dining room on the first floor has been transformed into the H. Grafman Grocery Store, originally located at 603 W. Vliet St. Chudnow had a close connection to the Grafmans, his wife’s family.

Packages of coffee, flour, cereal, spices and other dry goods are on display, many of which still contain their original product. An old-fashioned ice box with wood facing shows how food was kept chilled, and its furniture-like appearance calls to mind trends in current kitchen design. An ornately decorated scale and cash register, like others seen throughout the museum, are reminders of the elegant design and craft lavished on utilitarian devices.

The Chudnow Museum of Yesteryear brings back the past in their "Wonderland Park" display. Photo: Kat Minerath.
The Chudnow Museum of Yesteryear brings back the past in their “Wonderland Park” display. Photo: Kat Minerath.

For a real eye-opener, visit the Bay View Drug Store display. A variety of bottles and jars with labels advertising all manner of potions line the walls, as do advertisements touting various curative benefits. Many of these treatments were aided by the addition of substances like alcohol, cocaine, and heroin. Daily notes that in those days, “medicine was a wide open field — that’s why the FDA was created.”

A less narcotic example of an old-fashioned remedy was directed toward women in the form of skunk oil. It was an oily, greasy lotion used to prevent wrinkles, and though it came from the aromatic animal, it fortunately did not use the scent of the skunk in its recipe.

Upstairs, the office of one of the home’s former occupants is recreated. Dr. Joseph J. Eisenberg had his medical practice here, receiving patients in a room that brings together many of the doctor’s professional belongings. In the 1920s and ‘30s, he not only saw patients, but also performed operations and X-rays in a room that is now outfitted as a small movie theatre.

The doctor’s old recovery room is now home to a display of toys, a source of fascination for the young and old. Lincoln Logs, and the lesser-known Lincoln Bricks, were invented by Frank Lloyd Wright’s son, John. It could be said that he followed his architect father in a D.I.Y. fashion.

An Easy Money game by Milton Bradley was a competitor with Parker Brothers’ iconic Monopoly, shown in a 1940s version that used wooden game pieces because of metal shortages during World War II. Gambling acumen was to be gained through a horse racing game that offered instruction on proper techniques for being a bookie as well as placing bets.

Other exhibits feature matters of interest to men and women of the time, such as displays of women’s changing hairstyles and fashions, offering context for the rebellious appearance of the flapper. A barbershop with a red velvet chair was a male retreat, and in this installation, has a secret door that opens to a speakeasy for a cocktail after a shave and haircut.

Daily estimates that only about 5 percent of Chudnow’s total collection is on view, but the museum changes exhibitions periodically to explore different themes. Politics is one topic currently at the forefront. Displays include one on Wisconsin’s “Fighting Bob” La Follette, a formidable Progressive candidate for president, and a gallery of political memorabilia highlighting the career of Milwaukee’s longest serving Socialist mayor, Daniel Hoan.

Strolling through these rooms, with their extraordinarily presented pieces, is a rare glimpse back through time. It reflects how much can be learned through even the most ordinary items, and instills admiration for the devotion of Chudnow, whose ceaseless collecting of the past became a gift for the future.

The Chudnow Museum of Yesteryear is located at 839 N. 11th St. The museum will celebrate St. Patrick’s Day on March 12 and 13 by offering Green River Floats, made with Green River Soda, free with admission. Admission is $5, $4 for seniors and students; the museum is open Wed. to Sun. Visit chudnowmuseum.org for more details.

Supper club-themed concession stand opens at Kohl Center

Cheese curds, fish fry and open-faced prime rib sandwiches are now available at a stand at the Kohl Center modeled after a vintage Wisconsin supper club.

The unique concession stand includes a reclaimed red oak counter top with a red vinyl upholstered front, a cedar shake shingle roof and mood lighting.

There’s also a mounted fish and deer rack for decorations, along with a neon “Travel Wisconsin Supper Club” sign.

State Tourism Secretary Stephanie Klett said “Where else on the planet will you find a supper club inside a sports arena?”

On the Web…

Travel Wisconsin news on the Kohl Center supper club.

Holiday decorating trends you’ll see at stores this season

For those who love to decorate, there’s no time like the holidays for adding fun, festive touches to our living spaces. This year, there’s something for many tastes and styles.

A look at the trends you’ll see at stores:

CHRISTMAS PAST

The 1920s inspire a lot of holiday décor, with West Elm offering glittery Art Deco letter ornaments and star garlands, as well as Deco-patterned, mercury-glass hurricanes in silver and midnight blue. Elegant, gold, blown-glass animals fit the vibe.

At Pier 1, you’ll find beaded tree swags, as well as ornaments encrusted with sequins or glass mosaics. Beaded metallic pillars, champagne glasses and bottles, and chevron-patterned pendants add Jazz Age style.

Throw pillows and signs printed with a vintage-style chalkboard Christmas greeting hold charm at Pottery Barn, where the design is also available in a door mat. Here too, a decorative collection of old-fashioned village homes, churches and schoolhouses evokes turn-of-the-century German ornaments similarly made of cardboard and silver glitter. Purchases from the collection support shelters nationwide through the Give a Little Hope organization.

For a more midcentury look, consider Crate & Barrel’s teardrop ornaments in a sexy, red matte glass. If you’re into making some of your own midcentury modern Christmas decorations, check out the DIY Network’s website for suggestions including stockings and ornaments.

SNOW GLOW

LED lighting is now in just about anything, including holiday decorations. Ikea’s Strala collection includes a garland of pierced gold balls fitted with LEDs, and a bright red tree mat has built-in LEDs.

Frontgate’s Meteor light set twinkles, showers, shimmers and glows at the touch of a button.

Clusters of string lights look gorgeous under glass cloches; Restoration Hardware offers both in various sizes. And snow globes that send up a flurry of up-lit flakes with the push of a button are a twist on the traditional.

Also at the retailer: spare, birch-wrapped branches wrapped in warm LEDs, in various sizes for tabletop or entryway floor.

CITY SPARKLE

“This year I’m seeing deep, rich hues,” says designer Taniya Nayak. “Think sapphire, deep emerald and sexy violet. The real wow factor rolls in with the metallic touches. There is a cool juxtaposition that happens when you mix the sophisticated richness of jewel tones and the medley of copper patina and copper shine.”

Pier 1’s peacock-inspired tree skirt anchors a collection of vibrant ornaments in faceted glass, sequins or feathers.

There are accent pillows on the market this year decorated with glitter, bugle beads, sequins or metallic embroidery thread. Look for snowflake or tree motifs, or seasonal words like “Noel” and “Joy.” One or two on an entryway bench greet guests with panache; Target and Homegoods have nicely priced options.

Z Gallerie has the glamorous Folly collection of white and gold pearl wreaths, table trees and garlands, as well as crystal flower spheres and ornaments in trendy turquoise.

Stylized foxes and owls in white or gold acrylic add a soft, metallic accent to the tree or tablescape, from Ikea.

Pottery Barn’s chinchilla, fox or bear faux-fur tree skirts add a touch of luxe. Dress the tree with midcentury-style copper and brass trims for a cool and current vibe.

CAMP CHRISTMAS

The rustic, cabin-y look that took off last year has held strong. Woodland creatures populate the ornament collections at Land of Nod, while, in a twist, hedgehogs and raccoons are photoprinted on little stuffed ornaments at Target.

At West Elm, Boston designer Mimi Kirchner’s felt foxes, deer, raccoons and bears sport jaunty scarves and plaid coats.

Ikea’s Vinter collection features Swedish patterns on cushion covers and guest towels. At Pottery Barn, an advent calendar with farmhouse charm is created out of small, galvanized buckets mounted on a pine frame.

Artists Petra Borner and Fiona Howard have designed ornaments for Crate & Barrel evoking European folk art designs. Here too, clever tree collars made of glossy red or galvanized metal to resemble vintage tubs.

FOR ENTERTAINING

Nayak loves “any mixture of glam and rustic,” including “a winter-white backdrop with reclaimed wood and a bit of polished chrome.”

Crate & Barrel’s got a selection of laser-cut, crocheted and curled paper snowflakes in creamy hues of champagne, bronze and white; add a few glittery, beaded ornaments in silver and muted grays.

Sandy Chilewich has a new collection of mats and runners rendered in gold, silver, gunmetal and brass, in a chic geometric Pebble pattern.

At Target, Nate Berkus’ Ascot Star dessert plates and trays feature a classic foulard pattern in smart black and white that would work for get-togethers straight into New Year’s Eve.

For Hanukah, Jonathan Adler offers a blue, Lucite cube menorah, as well as an array of mod, ceramic-animal menorahs. At Williams-Sonoma, a collection of porcelain plates and serve-ware in cream with a graphic print of ancient temple menorahs would add style to a holiday buffet.

Sara Peterson, editor-in-chief of HGTV Magazine, likes colorful décor beyond the traditional red and green. “Felt pom-pom garlands are always a party hit, and not just for Christmas trees,” she says. “String them on stair railings and around mirrors, and drape them from your curtain rods.”

Think beyond the living room, Peterson says.

“Add a little decorating twist here and there throughout your house,” she says. “It’s fun to do something beyond just setting the table. In guest bathrooms, use a whiteboard marker to write a fun holiday message on the mirror, and put down a holiday-themed bath mat. In the kitchen, plant mini cypress trees in colorful glazed pots, and swap out regular dish towels for festive tea towels.’

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