Tag Archives: soup

Kitchenwise: Tomatoes are the stars of Chilled BLT Soup

Everyone knows Joyce Kilmer’s love song to trees — “I think that I shall never see/ A poem lovely as a tree.” That’s the way I feel about tomatoes. Accordingly, Chilled BLT Soup puts the “T” in BLT.

Yes, there’s bacon and lettuce, and some toast, too, in the form of croutons. But the star of this show is the tomato in its season.

How do you know whether you’re buying a good tomato? To start, pick it up. It should feel heavy, which lets you know it’s ripe and juicy. Then take a whiff of the stem end. It should smell strongly like … a tomato. Once you get it home, store it on the counter, out of the sun. If it’s not fully red, just leave it alone. It will continue to ripen at room temperature. Don’t put a whole uncut tomato in the refrigerator. Chilling it will kill the flavor and the texture.

You want to salt your tomatoes ahead of time, before you cook them, a step that helps to concentrate their flavor. First salt the large tomatoes, which form the base of the soup. Then salt the quartered tomatoes, which provide crunch.

The tomatoes in this recipe don’t need to be seeded or peeled. That’s because you’re going to puree them in a blender until smooth. (Use a blender, not a food processor, which doesn’t produce a smooth texture.) Also, if you seed the tomatoes, you lose a lot of the jelly surrounding the seeds — and that jelly is where the tomato essence lives.

On the chance that you’ve somehow underrated tomatoes before, this deeply flavorful and refreshing soup will show you what you’ve been missing.

 

CHILLED BLT SatoesatoesOUP

Start to finish: 1 hour 30 minutes (30 active), plus chilling time

Servings: 4

3 pounds large tomatoes

Kosher salt

2 cups 1/2-inch bread cubes

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

4 slices bacon

1 pound cherry tomatoes, quartered

1/3 cup mayonnaise

1/2 teaspoon finely minced garlic

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon sherry vinegar

Black pepper

1 cup shredded romaine

Preheat oven to 425 F.

Core and cut the large tomatoes into 1/2-inch thick wedges. In a large bowl toss the wedges with 1 teaspoon salt and set them aside for 1 hour.

Meanwhile, on a large rimmed sheet pan toss the bread cubes with 1 tablespoon olive oil until they are well coated. Sprinkle them very lightly with salt and toss again. Bake on the middle shelf of the oven until they are golden, 6 to 8 minutes. Set them aside to cool.

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, cook the bacon until it is crisp, about 5 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain. When the bacon is cool, crumble it and set it aside.

In a strainer set over a bowl toss the cherry tomatoes with 1/2 teaspoon salt and let them drain for 15 minutes.

In a small bowl combine the mayonnaise with the garlic, the lemon juice and 1 tablespoon of the tomato juice from the drained cherry tomatoes and stir well.

Working in batches, transfer the tomato wedges and their liquid to a blender and blend until very smooth. Transfer to a bowl, stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, the sherry vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste. Add the cherry tomatoes and chill the soup until it is cold.

To serve: Spoon one-fourth of the soup into each of the four soup bowls. Drizzle each portion with some of the mayonnaise and top with the bacon, the romaine and the croutons.

 

Nutrition information per serving: 380 calories; 250 calories from fat; 28 g fat (5 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 13 mg cholesterol; 573 mg sodium; 27 g carbohydrate; 6 g fiber; 13 g sugar; 8 g protein.

 

Sara Moulton is host of public television’s “Sara’s Weeknight Meals.” She was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows, including “Cooking Live.” Her latest cookbook is “Home Cooking 101.”

Wisconsin ranks No. 2 … in love for the green-bean casserole

Wisconsin ranks No. 2 on a survey of love for the green-bean casserole, that apparent favorite of Thanksgiving Day side dishes.

Del Monte conducted the survey, which it called the Del Monte Green Bean Index, and released it just days before the holiday, when an estimated 30 million green-bean casseroles will be set upon U.S. tables. To conduct this study, bean counters at Del Monte asked 1,500 Americans to rate their fondness for the classic green-bean casserole side dish.

Wisconsin had the second highest concentration of green-bean casserole lovers, just one percentage point behind No. 1 ranked Kentucky.

Here’s the lineup:

#1:  Kentucky (78% of residents ‘really like or love the dish’)

#2:  Wisconsin (77%)

#3:  Missouri (76%)

#4:  Iowa (75%)

#5:  Maine (74%)

#6:  New Hampshire (73%)

#7:  Florida (72%)

#8:  Colorado (71%)

#9:  California (69%)

#10: Mississippi (68%)

#11:  Oklahoma (67%)

#12:  Utah (66%)

#13:  Kansas (66%)

#14:  Texas (65%)

#15:  Maryland (64%)

#16:  Ohio (63%)

#17:  Massachusetts (62%)

#18:  Illinois (61%)

#19:  Michigan (60%)

#20:  New York (60%).

The company also polled on the top favorite additions to the casserole typically made with green beans, cream of mushroom soup and french-fried onions. And the survey showed:

#1:  Bacon (37% picked it as their favorite secret ingredient)

#2:  Cheese (19%)

#3:  Mushrooms (15%)

#4:  Bread crumbs, croutons, or crushed crackers (12%)

#5:  Almonds (8%)

There you have it. Something to keep the conversation going during the holiday feast.

Soups for cold days

Few foods have the restorative power of soup. We’re not talking about the canned heat-and-eat variety, many of which lean too heavily on sodium as a key ingredient. We prefer to make our own soups and, thanks to our participation in a community-supported agriculture program, we always enter the new year with a cornucopia of root vegetables just waiting for some broth.

This time of year we prefer hot, thick soups chock-full of ingredients (mostly vegetables) to fill our stomachs and warm our souls.

In creating a soup, professional cooks start with one or two specific ingredients and add contents they regard as complementary. Our choice is often determined by what’s been sitting for the longest time in the vegetable bin. For instance, three or four leftover turnips cry out for a batch of booyah, an extra chunky chicken-noodle-vegetable soup that’s a local favorite.

Ready to stash the Campbell’s and try making your own soup from scratch? Here are a couple of recipes to get you started.

CHICKEN BOOYAH

In producing the traditional northeastern Wisconsin soup-stew, our Kewaunee County grandmothers started with a big stewing hen cut into pieces and set to boil. Everything — including the skin, bones, neck and vital organs — were included along with the meat.

The resulting soups were rich with layers of chicken fat, vegetables and homemade noodles. As much as we loved the chicken booyah, we’ve modified the recipe to be more heart-healthy and appealing.

Ingredients

2 lbs. chicken breasts, bone-in

5 quarts water

2 tablespoons kosher salt

1 medium onion, chopped

4 carrots, sliced

3 stalks celery, diced

(We also add turnips, parsnips, rutabagas or celeriac from our CSA)

2 cups frozen corn 

5 oz. Harrington’s Amish Style Handmade Noodles

Directions

Remove skin from chicken breasts and place them in a large stockpot. Add 5 quarts of water and 2 tablespoons of kosher salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 2 hours. 

Remove the chicken breasts from the stockpot and place on a plate to cool. Allow the stock to cool and remove any congealed fat. Strain the stock and return it to the pot. Heat to boiling, add the vegetables and noodles and simmer for 30–45 minutes. While the vegetables are cooking, remove the meat from the bones and cut it into small pieces. When the vegetables are soft, add the breast meat to the stock and simmer for an additional 15-20 minutes. Enjoy!

SPICY BUTTERNUT SQUASH AND BLACK BEAN SOUP

We’re fans of vegetarian soups and of anything using squash. Blogger Kaylen Denny’s low-fat adaptation of the following Bon Apetit recipe for Azteca Squash Soup is a delicious, meat-free alternative. 

Ingredients

1 large butternut squash (about 1.5 lbs.)

Salt and fresh ground black pepper 

2 teaspoons olive oil

2 cups finely chopped onion

2 cups finely chopped celery

6 cloves garlic, finely minced 

6 cups vegetable stock or canned vegetable broth 

2 teaspoons ground cumin 

1 15-oz. can of black beans

1 medium red bell pepper, chopped small

1/2 cup chopped cilantro (plus more to garnish soup if desired)

1–2 tablespoons of jalapeño hot sauce 

Low-fat sour cream or plain Greek yogurt to garnish soup (if desired)

Crushed tortilla chips to sprinkle in the soup (if desired)

DIRECTIONS

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Cut the butternut squash in half and use a sharp spoon to scoop out seeds. Place the squash on a baking sheet, season with salt and pepper and roast until slightly brown and soft enough to pierce with a fork (about 50-60 minutes).  Let the squash cool enough to handle.

While the squash is roasting, chop the onion and celery and mince the garlic. Heat the olive oil in a large nonstick soup pot and sauté the onions and celery until soft (about 7 minutes).  Add minced garlic and cook 2–3 minutes more.  Add 2 cups of vegetable broth and simmer the mixture for 10 minutes.

Once the squash has cooled, scrape the flesh from the skin and mix it with the other 4 cups of broth and the ground cumin.  Add this mixture to the soup pot and simmer about 20 minutes; then use an immersion blender or food processor to purée the soup.  

While the soup simmers, rinse the black beans with cold water. Chop the cilantro and red bell pepper.  Add the beans, red bell pepper and cilantro to the soup mixture and simmer for 15–20 minutes more, adding a little more vegetable stock if desired.  Stir in the jalapeño sauce to taste and serve the soup hot, garnished with low-fat sour cream or plain Greek yogurt and tortilla chips.

Savory soup for cold winter nights

When it’s bitterly cold outside, is there anything better than the inner warmth that only a piping hot bowl of soup can provide?

Winter is definitely soup season for us, a time when we take to the kitchen with piles of fresh vegetables, succulent meats and seafood and a cupboard full of herbs and spices. Whether the result is bouillon or bouillabaisse, bisque, borscht or bird’s nest soup, a hearty, nutritious meal is only a matter of combining the right ingredients and setting the stove to simmer.

The evidence of soup dates back to 6,000 B.C., about the time that clay jars – thought to be the first watertight containers – came into use. The word “soup” comes from the French word “soupe,” or broth, which further derives from “suppa,” a phrase in vulgar Latin that meant bread soaked in broth. In 16th-century France, soup sold by street vendors became popular for its restorative powers. It wasn’t long before entrepreneurs set up soup shops called restaurants, which loosely translates into “something restorative.”

Soup was popular in Colonial America and the invention of canning made soup even more popular – and accessible. The Campbell Soup Co. introduced condensed soups in 1897. Its three most popular brands – tomato, cream of mushroom and chicken noodle – account for some 2.5 billion bowls consumed in America every year.

We like to make our own soups, combining organic vegetables and grocery store ingredients to create a hearty and healthy meal. Soup is a good way to use leftover produce and it helps to make nutritious but difficult ingredients, such as a kale, more manageable.

In creating soups, first decide on a main ingredient, then look for other contents to complement it in both flavor and texture. Decide if you want the soup to be thick and stew-like, or merely a thin broth. Knowing that will help you choose the right amount of seasoning. 

The following recipes are among our favorites:

Winter squash soup with Gruyère croutons 

(adapted from epicurious.com)

¼ cup (½ stick) butter

1 large onion, finely chopped

4 large garlic cloves, chopped

3 14½-ounce cans low-salt chicken broth

3 lbs. squash, butternut or acorn (2 large or 3 small)

1 ¼ tsp. minced fresh thyme

1 ¼ tsp. minced fresh sage

¼ cup half & half

2 tsp. sugar

Croutons

2 tbsp. (¼ stick) butter

24 ¼-inch-thick baguette bread slices

1 cup grated Gruyère cheese

1 tsp. minced fresh thyme

1 tsp. minced fresh sage

For soup:
Melt butter in large pot over medium heat. Add onion and garlic, then sauté until tender (about 10 minutes). Cut the squash in half and remove the seeds. Brush each half with olive oil and lightly salt and pepper. Place squash on baking sheet cut side down and roast in a 350-degree oven for 1 hour. Remove from the oven and cool. Scoop the flesh from the squash and add it to onions. Then add the broth and herbs and bring to boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer until squash is tender (about 20 minutes). Puree soup in a blender then return it to the same pot. Stir in cream and sugar and simmer. Season with salt and pepper. 

Preheat broiler. Butter one side of each bread slice and arrange buttered side up on baking sheet. Broil until golden (about one minute). Turn over. Sprinkle cheese, then thyme and sage over bread. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Broil until cheese melts (about one minute). Ladle soup into bowls, top with croutons and serve.

Black bean chili with dark roast coffee

(Adapted by Andrea Yoder, Harmony Valley Farms, from “Long Way on a Little”
by Shannon Hayes)

Serves 4-6

1 cup dried or canned black beans, sorted and rinsed

1 tbsp. vegetable oil

1 pound beef stew meat or round steak, cubed

1 large onion, diced

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 tbsp. chili powder

1 tsp. ground cumin

1 tbsp. crumbled dried oregano, or 3 tbsp. fresh oregano 

¼ tsp. cinnamon

1½ tsp. unsweetened cocoa powder

1 tsp. dried chipotle powder

1 tsp. coarse salt, or to taste

2 cups diced canned tomatoes

1 cup strong brewed medium to dark roast coffee

3-4 cups beef or vegetable broth

Optional garnishes:

Sour cream, shredded cheddar or Monterey Jack cheese, chopped fresh cilantro, diced onion, diced and pickled hot peppers and diced avocado

1. Prepare the dried black beans by putting them in a saucepan and covering with water. Bring the water to a boil, then turn off the heat, cover the pan and soak until tender. Drain and discard the soaking liquid prior to adding the beans to the chili. For canned beans, drain and rinse.

2. In a medium soup pot, heat oil over medium heat. Add the stew meat or round steak cubes and cook until nicely browned on all sides. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Add the onions and garlic to the pan with the meat and sauté until the onions are soft and translucent. Stir in the chili powder, cumin, oregano, cinnamon, cocoa powder, chipotle powder and salt. Cook one minute, stirring, then add tomatoes, beans and coffee. Cover and simmer for one to one and a half hours, stirring periodically. Both the meat and beans should be tender. 

4. Remove the lid and simmer until thickened to your liking. Adjust the seasoning to your taste. Serve with the toppings of your choice and corn tortillas, cornbread or corn muffins.

Salvation Army would close soup kitchens over gay benefits

The Salvation Army says it will close soup kitchens for New York’s homeless if firms doing business with the city are required to offer health benefits to the domestic partners of their gay and lesbian staffers.

A spokesman for the organization said the Salvation Army would rather walk away from $70 million a year in city contracts and abandon the clients it serves, including foster kids and people with HIV, rather than betray its fundamentalist Christian faith by providing the healthcare benefits.

Earlier this month, New York City council approved a measure mandating that city contractors offer domestic partner benefits for their gay and lesbian workers. Although New York Mayor Michael Bloomberg opposes the law, the council is likely to override his veto.

The Salvation Army serves about five million people annually in New York. The group has multiyear contracts with the city totaling $250 million.

In March, Catholic Charities in Washington, D.C., dropped spousal benefits for all newlyweds and new hires in order to evade compliance with that city’s same-sex marriage law.

Salvation Army to close soup kitchens over gay benefits

The Salvation Army says it will close soup kitchens for New York’s homeless if firms doing business with the city are required to offer health benefits to the domestic partners of its gay and lesbian staffers.

A spokesman for the organization said the Salvation Army would rather walk away from $70 million a year in city contracts and abandon the clients it serves, including foster kids and people with HIV, rather than betray its fundamentalist Christian faith by providing the healthcare benefits.

Earlier this month, New York City council approved a measure mandating that city contractors offer domestic partner benefits for their gay and lesbian workers. Although New York Mayor Michael Bloomberg opposes the law, the council is likely to override his veto.

The Salvation Army serves about five million people annually in New York. The group has multiyear contracts with the city totaling $250 million.

In March, Catholic Charities in Washington, D.C., dropped spousal benefits for all newlyweds and new hires in order to evade compliance with that city’s same-sex marriage law.