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Written by Michael Muckian, Contributing writer
Sep 22, 2011
Bayfield has become one of the state’s most popular retreats. – Photo: Bayfield Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Bureau
Watching the sunrise from the front porch of the Old Rittenhouse Inn in Bayfield is a clear reminder of how life should be lived.
The Rittenhouse, 301 Rittenhouse Ave., sits atop the hill at one of the highest points of one of Wisconsin’s northernmost communities. The view from the stately Queen Anne-style bed and breakfast’s wraparound porch – made especially appealing with a hot cup of the inn’s good coffee to ward off the crisp morning chill – takes in a sweeping panorama of Lake Superior over the rooftops. Birdsongs from among the maples and oaks changing to their autumn colors enhance the serenity, providing a much-needed balm for the soul.
Over the years, Bayfield has become one of the state’s most popular retreats, its main streets often crowded with visitors. Bayfield is the gateway to the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore, and ferries run to Madeline Island, the largest of the Apostles, on regular daily schedules. The pace slows a bit in fall, when the weather cools, the colors change and things return to a more leisurely pace.
Of course, there are exceptions, the largest of which is the Bayfield Apple Festival, celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. An estimated 50,000 visitors will crowd Bayfield (population about 600) during the weekend of Oct. 7-9 for the annual event. They come to browse the arts and crafts booths, sample the wares of some 60 orchards and food vendors, and dance in the street to the locally-based, but nationally-known Big Top Chautauqua Blue Canvas Orchestra.
The festival, the largest on Bayfield’s social calendar, also features fish boils, boat cruises, a Venetian boat parade, a performance by the Ojibwe Drum and Dance Troop, a grand parade and a 600-member “mass band” finale on Sunday. Many area hotel and bed-and-breakfast rooms are booked a year out, but last-minute cancellations can open the door for new revelers and fans of the state’s favorite fruit (apologies to any readers who thought they held that title).
The end of the Apple Festival does not close the door on Bayfield’s season of celebration and serenity. The town remains an attractive destination throughout the fall, with continued availability of bountiful produce, an array of shops, galleries and restaurants, and the continued warmth of its inhabitants even as the days grow shorter and the nights cooler.
Nearby Madeline Island holds its own fall festival Oct. 22 as a way to end the social season. Established in 1718 by French colonists as the primary Lake Superior fur-trading center, the island boasts a rich history to augment its peaceful atmosphere. (Unfortunately, many of its attractions close in October or before.)
Bayfield’s activities continue through the winter months, offering lively antidotes to Wisconsin “cabin fever.”
On Feb. 4-5, the 17th annual Apostle Islands Sled Dog Race pits amateur mushers against the elements. There are two main races: an eight-dog, 80-mile race and a six-dog, 60-mile race. The distance is split between the two days. A 40-mile race, a 6- to 8-mile family race and a 6- to 8-mile youth race (16 and under) round out the weekend. Multiple spectator locations are available, with amenities including warming tents, concessions and bonfires.
On Feb. 11, the annual Blue Moon Ball, held at Bayfield’s Lakeside Pavilion, is prom night for adults. Go in black tie or your best vintage prom dress and dance to the sounds of the Big Woods Big Band. Trophies are given in several “best dressed” categories and a king and queen (alas, of the traditional variety) will be crowned.
The season ends March 4-6 with the Bayfield Winter Festival. Take a polar bear plunge or run on the water – all the activities are designed to break you out of your winter doldrums and ready you for spring, which is just around the corner.
For some, however, Bayfield’s allure remains it solitude and peace. And there is nothing better on a cold Bayfield winter’s night than curling up by a cozy fire with a glass of wine, a good book or pleasant companions and remembering once again how life should be lived.
