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Written by Rick Karlin
Jun 2, 2011
Cempazuchi is a bright and friendly double storefront with a festive vibe. Its slogan is “comida brava” which translates roughly to mean “wild food.” If that’s true I hope they never tame it.
At Cempazuchi, you’ll find all the standards that folks love about Mexican-American restaurants. Big complimentary basket of chips with salsa? Check. All entrées served with beans and rice? Check. An assortment of meats and veggies available wrapped in or piled atop tortillas? Check. Pitchers of margaritas? Check.
Seven different moles? Wow!
Yes, you’ll find the standard Mexican-American fare, but you’ll also find classic home-style Mexican dishes and upscale Mexican fine dining, including inventive dishes that are so popular in Nueva Latina restaurants. The chips, for example, are pretty run-of-the-mill – it’s the salsas that are notable. Whether you prefer the roasted tomato or the tomatillo-pumpkin seed is a matter of taste, as both have their strengths.
You might want to start your meal (or make a meal of) the soup. There’s the classic tortilla soup, as well as a Yucatan version served with pickled habanero onions. Both are a steal at $3 for a cup, $5 for a bowl. In places like this, salads are usually boring – but again, Cempazuchi exceeds expectations. Whether it’s a mixture of shredded jicama over tender greens with grapefruit and avocado slices or the entrée-sized combination of bacon, avocado, goat cheese, chicken strips, tomatoes, hard-boiled egg, tortilla strips, pumpkin seeds and grilled corn on a bed of romaine and red leaf lettuce, you’re certain to be impressed with the greenery here.
I’m a big fan of torta, the Mexican version of a sub sandwich. The classic is available here with a choice of steak, chicken, pork or, my choice, tinga (a spicy blend of pork and chicken).The large sandwich, served with beans, grilled onions, lettuce, tomato and guacamole is only $7. Other versions include a variation on the Cubano or grilled cheese with avocado.
The bean and cheese burrito was well prepared, if a bit unremarkable, but it was satisfying enough for those who like that sort of thing. We also tried the fish tacos, available with either cornmeal-crusted perch or grilled salmon. The perch was lost in the overly heavy coating of blue cornmeal. The salmon fared better and proved a better bargain, as each dish was priced $10.
After 5 p.m. the dinner menu offers more exotic options, such as your choice of one of seven moles from Oaxaca served over turkey or a pre-Hispanic style sauce of roasted pumpkin seeds, peanut, sesame seeds and chiles (known as Pipian) served over your choice of pork loin or chicken breast.
If there is a weak spot on the menu, it’s in the cocktail section. The margarita I ordered was so weak that I suspected it was non-alcoholic. The same could be said for the specialty cocktail, the Paloma. A combination of Milagro reposado, Domaine Charbay ruby red grapefruit vodka and grapefruit soda, it was overly fizzy and had an unpleasant chemical aftertaste. Still, at only $7 it’s worth the experiment to try a few. I look forward to trying the white sangria on my next visit. And there will be one.
(Cempazuchi, 1205 E. Brady St., 414-291-5233, cempazuchi.com)
